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Coperni: the Maison attempts to highlight hemp versus cannabis

«The hemp was left for an extra 15 days in the Marais soil, equivalent to 23 weeks of growth to date, it is harvested specifically for the show in order to keep it alive, contrary to agricultural habits»

Coperni Spring Summer Collection ‘2033’

Coperni showcased their Spring/Summer collection as 2033 instead of 2022, intending to express the Maison’s outlook towards the abundance, creativity, encouragement and growth of the future. It aims to steer away from science fiction and into the concepts of hope by representing light as a ballad to the sun. This circles back to the Maison’s DNA; the name Coperni invokes the life and work of Renaissance-era astronomer, Nicolaus Copernicus, whose mathematical and astronomical research into Heliocentrism inspired the Maison’s design. Considered as a genius of his time thanks to his theory regarding the motion of the Earth and planets, Copernicus presented the Copernic system: all the planets revolve around the Sun, acknowledging the Earth as a planet, just like all the others. Spearheaded by Sébastien Meyer as Creative Director & Co-Founder and Arnaud Vaillant as CEO & Co-Founder, Coperni states that «during moments of consciousness, our senses of time and self are altered; we may even feel time and self-dissolving». This foretells the role of the sun beyond the excretion of serotonin and as an actor of nature that fuels the Maison’s compendium; from the fields of hemp, the fastest growing plant on earth, to the benefits of cannabis leaves in the world of medicine.

The difference between hemp and marijuana 

A common misconception surrounding hemp and marijuana is that they belong to two different species of plant. Sian Fergurso, a health and cannabis writer based in Cape Town, South Africa, explains that they are actually the same, just with two different names to mean cannabis. Based on Fergurson’s research, science puts cannabis and hemp into the same category while the law divides them into two. This  observation is approved and reviewed by Dr. Jeff Chen, an expert on the science, business, and policy of legal cannabis. The legal difference between hemp and marijuana amounts to the tetrahydrocannabinol content, one of the many chemicals found in the cannabis plant that is responsible for the intoxicating effects that people seek. Hemp can have up to 0.3 percent tetrahydrocannabinol content based on its dry weight, a benchmark first proposed by Ernest Small in 1979 in his book The Species Problem in Cannabis: Science & Semantics. The United States has since recognized this percentage with the Agricultural Act of 201. Compared to the higher levels of tetrahydrocannabinol found in marijuana, the lower levels found in hemp is extremely unlikely to get someone high. In addition, hemp produces durable fibers which can create lightweight, absorbent, and UV and mold-resistant clothing. In a study by Earth Easy, a publication encouraging sustainability, they demonstrates how hemp can be a less expensive crop for farmers based on its minimal growth requirements. Hemp plants can produce up to ten tons of cellulose fiber pulp per acre within four months. Even after this, it requires less water than  cotton and does not need pesticides or fertilizers to grow. Additional research reveals that hemp production results in minimal waste; its seeds can be transformed into oil and food supplements while its stalks generate fiber for textile. Hemp also produces more fiber per acre than trees as industrial hemp plants absorb more carbon dioxide.

Look from the Coperni SS22 fashion show

91.530 Hemp and Coperni

91.530 Le Marais is a farm dedicated to empirical research at the intersection of art, science, and agriculture, aiming to develop a hemp terroir on the Château du Marais estate in France.  Inspired by hemp, Coperni took their design and runway cues from the cannabis plant to the farm. As Coperni states, the 91.530 Hemp is the fruit of two varieties and minerals. Its origin, identity, and entire growth process is monitored and recorded in an agricultural blockchain allowing  complete life-cycle traceability. Hemp, capable of absorbing up to 150 T of CO2 from its seed to its harvest, is one of the most promising crops of this century. It requires no watering, no pesticides, no artificial light. It is the ideal alternative to cotton. Its use in the textile industry, still largely unexplored today, dates back several millennia. It is the alliance between the historical heritage of the first human clothing and the ecological awareness of the future. The hemp plants of the Coperni show comes from a particular plot: «The hemp was left for an extra fifteen days in the Marais soil, equivalent to twenty-five weeks of growth to date. It is harvested for the show in order to keep it alive, contrary to agricultural habits. The result is aged hemp, like the best wines and whiskies». 91.530 Le Marais’ approach to biomimicry means imitating nature and its workings in the Anthropocene as hemp meets the urban ecosphere in the Paris Event Center at La Villette. The Maison continues to pay homage to nature with an original installation of 70,000 freshly cut hemp plant along with the prints and materials that visit the season’s designs. A patchwork print depicting the sun alongside a skull, cartoon, an image of a woman meditating and a scary sea creature appear on silk chiffon. Denim cargo pants, long skirts, baggy shorts and Cowboy boots coated in iridescence, offer an exploration into the future that forms part of Coperni’s vision for this season. The low-waist pants and crop tops reference the 2000s and embody the uniforms from the past. Tailored jackets, pants and skirts have removable suspenders that can expose the shoulders. The cut-out jacket can be worn in several ways depending on the occasion while maintaining a feeling of casualness. Coperni also introduces the cocooning dresses and tops which, with their hand-embroidered sequins and beads, envelop the body into a state of self-care.

Lampoon review: Coperni and technology 

Aside from nature, Coperni’s investment in technology infiltrates its accessories from the Origami bag – inspired by the iPhone photo app icon and doused in flowers as a reminder of the theme – to the Maison’s Swipe bag which melts to showcase an altered state, paying homage to the Melting Clock of Salvador Dali.
In the previous year, the Maison launched a campaign which featured Virtual Reality (VR), Augmented Reality (AR), and Mixed Reality (MR) as its entry to the employment of modern technology that define gaming software. We Are From LA directed the campaign video and filmed the shots in Paris at the first XR studio in France, created by Julien Collect and Pierre Guy-Costanzo. These days, the fashion and beauty industries seek ways to incorporate virtual and augmented reality into their brands and products. «E-сommerce has been growing over the past few years. It is now booming, due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Global E-commerce sales have already reached $3.53 trillion. Some experts estimate that coronavirus will accelerate the transition to online shopping by five years. Even so, fashion is unlikely to become 100% touch-free: many people still enjoy visiting physical malls where they can browse and try on real clothes. Retailers can use in-store AR and VR tools to cater to this kinesthetic audience. Increased engagement rates translate into higher brand loyalty levels and bigger sales», writes Kira Belova, a copywriter at PixelPlex. When the Coperni sunglasses elicited their influence from science fiction, they teased what the future holds for the Maison’s designs and themes, a filament of the former season’s introduction to virtual reality. For the first time, Coperni designed a jewelry collection in collaboration with Alan Crocetti in which the Coperni’s signature Swipe shape intertwines with silver Swipe rings and earrings. Styles in the shape of eyes and a variety of colors decorate the anklets, rings, and necklaces, while the escapularios extend the fantasy world that Coperni aims to invoke during the compendium; completely different from the Maison’s attempt to highlight hemp versus cannabis, augmented and virtual reality, nature and the sun, and its DNA that summons the theory of the motion of the Earth and planets.

Coperni 

Parisian ready-to-wear and accessories brand designed by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, established in 2013.   Experience in the studios of Balenciaga and Chanel, infusing a thorough knowledge of embroidery techniques through their work, streamlined with a linear sensibility that marries exhaustive origami-like technique with a neat ‘sportif’ silhouette. Since meeting in 2009, a perpetual artistic dialogue between Meyer and Vaillant has evolved into a profound design language. Coperni won ANDAM’s Creative Label Prize in 2014, a recognition for the label’s creative and commercial potential, and was also finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2015.

The writer does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article.

check and buy on Prototipo Store
item collections in limited edition
crafted according to our editorial search

Hemp / made in Italy
Lampoon is working to restore Hemp production in Italy
as hemp is the one and only natural vegetal fiber sourceable in the country
for more info, please email us

check and buy on Prototipo Store
item collections in limited edition
crafted according to our editorial search

Hemp / made in Italy
Lampoon is working to restore
Hemp production in Italy
as hemp is the one and only
natural vegetal fiber sourceable in the country
for more info, please email us at [email protected]

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