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Textile Fibers
The lotus plant: much is left to be discovered and not only about the fiber
If silk isn’t the first natural microfiber, then lotus certainly is. Acknowledging the ability to multitask within a community, Samatoa supplies women with work whilst keeping R&D in the fiber industry alive
Sex
Reframing desire through vintage erotic magazines: Jürgen Maelfeyt
An exploration of how 70s and 80s vintage erotic magazines shaped the visual language of intimacy, fragmentation, and sensual ambiguity in Maelfeyt’s trilogy
Fashion
Matthieu Blazy and Couture as an exercise of power
Between strategic caution and craftsmanship as content, Matthieu Blazy’s first Haute Couture uses Couture as an instrument of control, rather than a space for creative assertion
Magazine
Forestry
From eucalyptus trees to lyocell fibers: promises and limits of sustainable fashion
Lyocell from eucalyptus recovers over 99% of solvents in closed-loop production, uses about 600–800 liters of water per kg versus ~2,700 for cotton, and is biodegradable when FSC-certified
Fashion
Jonathan Anderson, Dior, and the British Cultural Scratch
Dissidence, irony, and controlled provocation. This is the British contribution to a house that more than any other embodies wealth, heritage, and symbolic power
Fashion
Is Valentino Couture about desire – or about voyeurism and denial?
One hole in the wall, many readings: Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture show becomes a device of voyeurism, a controlled fashion spectacle where desire is visible, regulated, and denied
The Art Field
We’re all eating from the same trash can: Jordan Sullivan and the Sick America
“Capitalism cultivates addiction and delirium – our souls were sold long ago.” A conversation with the painter Jordan Sullivan on marginal life and contemporary American experience
Textile Fibers
SA SU PHI: Italian knitwear built on proportion and purity
Brainchild of Sara Ferrero and of art director Susanna Cucco, an introduction to SA SU PHI: three-dimensional volumes, a balance of full and void
design
Feminine literacy, when the feminine is methodology rather than identity 
Feminine literacy looks at design from a different angle. It listens to voices and places that are ignored and asks how we can create things that care for people, nature and future. An interview with Doyenne studio’s founders
Fashion
How Richert Beil shapes garments from grit
From latex tailoring to deadstock suiting, Richert Beil’s work sits in the friction between instinct and resistance—imperfection, limitation and delay are part of the process
Naturally Sourced
Mycelium is emerging as a viable material for packaging and textile design
The a sustainable textile research: the option that comes from mushrooms. «We want to prevent as many of our resources going to landfill»
Fashion
Zegna, district, manufacturing: is this the only story we need?
It is not fashion. It is work. The “well made,” the cloth that stays in the wardrobe: the Zegna method and what Northern Italian enterprise still teaches
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Italia
Cinema
Lo spogliatoio della palestra: quando lo sport diventa un sogno erotico
Graffi sulla pelle, silenzi in panchina: una breve storia erotica dello spogliatoio, tra sesso, competizione, sudore e paura di esporsi. Da Tony Jacklin, fotografato nel 1968 su una panca a Heated Rivalry Corpi in sospensione, lo spogliatoio mascchile come anticamera del desiderio Tony Jacklin è un golfista inglese, il migliore della sua generazione. In un […]
Arte
Fluidità, dati e detriti: la distopia operativa di Hito Steyerl tra AI e clima
Immagini fluide, liquidi ambientali e immondizia informativa: The Island di Hito Steyerl – in mostra all’Osservatorio Fondazione Prada – legge il presente tra collasso ecologico e potere delle immagini
Design e Architettura
Bioedilizia e canapa industriale in Italia tra sostenibilità e limiti di filiera 
Mario Catania spiega come la canapa possa essere una risorsa concreta per la transizione ecologica, coniugando produzione industriale, sostenibilità ambientale e sviluppo sociale
Impegno civile
Milano 1959, un articolo di 60 anni fa parla della situazione di oggi  
Un vecchio articolo di giornale si rivela attuale – un architetto parla dello sventramento della città, e si pone la domanda sulla tutela dei monumenti e del verde urbano
Filiera Italiana
Ambra, un laboratorio in Toscana per infiorescenze di canapa ed estratti senza solventi
Tra Maremma e Siena, Ambra nasce da un laboratorio che integra agricoltura biologica, analisi chimico-analitica e processi a freddo senza solventi per il fitocomplesso della canapa 
Filiera Italiana
La crisi idrica in Lombardia accelera la trasformazione dell’agricoltura
Gestione delle falde, carbonio nel suolo e nuovi modelli produttivi: Maddalena Gioia Gibelli, presidente di Casa dell’Agricoltura, racconta una transizione agricola forzata tra clima, economia e politiche carenti
Moda
Jonathan Anderson, Dior e quel graffio della cultura inglese
La cultura e l’ironia inglese, quel fare dissacrante, lo schiaffo e il graffio tra artigianato e provocazione – oggi sono il motore del brand che è più di ogni altro rappresenta lusso e ricchezza Il graffio di Jonathan Anderson da Dior Farla difficile – disturbarti un po’. La sfilata di Jonathan Anderson per Dior umo […]
Cinema
Timothée Chalamet usa Marty Supreme per riscrivere la sua immagine
Non un film sullo sport ma sulla reputazione: vittoria come status, marketing come autobiografia: Timothée Chalamet abbandona la teca di Elio 
Design e Architettura
Emilio Ambasz: il verde che penetra il cemento
La mostra Green over Gray all’ADI Design Museum di Milano ripercorre il pensiero di Emilio Ambasz, pioniere dell’architettura verde urbana, tra etica del costruire e restituzione del paesaggio
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READER
Reportage
Lampoon and LabSolue at W Florence for the Greenest Fragrance: Canapa N381
Canapa N381 is unveiled during Pitti Uomo at W Florence as a limited edition Eau de Parfum by Lampoon and LabSolue, bringing hemp back into focus within contemporary perfume research
The Publishing Industry
Future Bookstore in Changshu and the question of what a literary space can become
In an ancient water town in Jiangsu province, Future Bookstore uses a traditional pagoda, a speculative interior by Mur Mur Lab and a reduced selection of titles to explore how bookstores might exist in the future
Hotels
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Perfume List
Solsequium, the sun’s own flower: Ffern Summer 25
A fragrance house rewriting the codes of perfumery, where scarcity is the new abundance and a summer sunset an eternal dream
When the Gong Rings: Floraïku Turns Afternoon Tea into Perfume
Floraïku’s latest eau de parfum traces the arc of a gong strike, echoing the mindful swell and release of afternoon tea rituals—each moment sweetened by the allure of traditional dorayaki
How Maison Margiela’s Replica Line Bottled Winter’s Essence
From Chamonix’s Snow-Covered Chalets to the Lab: By the Fireplace, part of the Replica collection, draws on the nostalgia of 1970s Chamonix, blending raw materials and alpine culture into a fragrance
Diptyque Re-lights the Neon of the Orphéon
More than half a century later, Diptyque has returned to that ember-lit cradle of its creativity, transforming memories of sax riffs and swirling cigarette ribbons into a limited-edition collection that puts the club’s name, Orphéon, in lights once again
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Hemp
Naturally Sourced
Do you need to apply for a license to grow hemp in New York?
A multidisciplinary team at Cornell collaborates to enhance hemp cultivation and resource sharing within the industry, backed by state funding and focused on research and education
Textile Fibers
Manila Hemp is better known as Abaca Fiber: what is it?
The Sustainable Alternative to Glass Fiber: Manila Hemp (aka Abaca Fiber) - tensile strength, seawater resistance it’s willing to surpass hundreds of millions by 2030
Textile Fibers
Hemp activewear and denim: higher yield and less water consumption
Robert Jungmann shares insights gained over 30 years, noting advancements that allow for innovative blends of hemp in textiles. Improvements that paved the way for hemp activewear options
Naturally Sourced
Hemp biocomposites: food packaging solutions using hemp biomass
An international team of scientists studies the valorization of hemp biocomposites, revealing its potential in developing sustainable food packaging solutions
Naturally Sourced
Hemp for the future: here’s why one plant can change everything
From ancient civilizations to climate-resilient futures, hemp is the sustainable, regenerative crop that touches every aspect of our lives – from agriculture to architecture, wellness to wearable tech
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