Collections Archive

Fashion in Milan, between decadence and reset: the future is craftcore

Review and consideration of the presentations and fashion shows that have taken place in Milan: which direction should fashion go in order to remain a positive expression of the Italian industry?

Carlo Mazzoni

Collina Strada SS23 in New York: «from funky caterpillar era to full butterfly glow-up»

From post punk aesthetics to the romantic and rebellious revolution, Hillary Taymour Collina Strada presents a co-ed show in the Brooklyn greenway setting

Chiara Narciso

Eckhaus Latta SS23: celebrating the artworks of Matthew Underwood

Eckhaus Latta presents in New York the Spring Summer 2023 collection, where images of Matthew Underwood’s artwork were printed on ribbed dresses

Cecilia Falovo

Fendi Baguette 25th – street style and Nineties nostalgia in New York City

Resort 2023 is an eight-hands designer collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi, Kim Jones, Delfina Delettrez, Marc Jacobs, with the collaboration of Tiffany&Co.

Martina Tondo

Vaspaar Gallery, ‘the provider of all things’ – Andrea Grecucci and Kaisha Davierwalla

Andrea Grecucci and Kaisha Davierwalla, co-owners of the gallery, aim at providing their collector base with a 360 degree consultancy and an informal approach to curatorial practices

Agnese Torres

Repurposing your clothes: they can even become dinner. Paula Ulargui Escalona for Loewe Menswear 2023 collection

Paula Ulargui Escalona for Loewe Menswear 2023 collection: the young Spanish designer imagines ways to socialize responsible consumers with grass dipped clothing

Maria Hristina Agut

Can art take inspiration from clothing? Alexander McQueen curates the Process exhibition

Starting from the pre fall/winter 2022 Alexander McQueen Collection, twelve female artists were invited to create an art piece inspired by the clothes

Maria Hristina Agut

Christian Levett – about the art market, the aesthetic taste and financial logic

«The core of my collection is female Abstract Expressionist. The idea is not to sell any artworks, but to leave them in heritage to my children and grandchildren»

Federico Jonathan Cusin

Carbon-insetting through low-emission materials: a game plan by Ganni

Through ‘Fabrics of the Future,’ Ganni hopes to collaborate with five new low-emission fibre innovators per year. This year’s line-up includes: Stem, Mylo, Circulose among others

Aarushi Saxena

The message by Joshua James Small: a collection of ten looks, opposed to sixty

«I can tell a story about every piece of clothing I’ve ever made or bought» – Joshua James Small discusses the narrative behind his collection, Thru These Tears

Sian Lori

Maison Dior takes the enhancement of Venetian heritage quite seriously

It was 2020 when Dior covered the facade of the Correr Museum with a cascade of gold created by Fabrizio Plessi. This year, the French house continues to invest in Venice with two initiatives

Editorial Team

Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week: some Zazou subculture inspirations

From Zazou subculture to the Eighties era, up to cowboys and garage scene grifters, all the men of the Dries Van Noten SS23 collection

Chiara Narciso

Giorgio Armani «The sense of freedom is not in contradiction with the sense of style»

The tone of male personality: Giorgio Armani keeps on seeking the masculine sexiness: proposing a sense of certainty and never ceasing to be himself

Martina Tondo

Staging a Spanish fashion inquisition. Dior in Seville – the Spanish cultural hub

‘The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain’ – in its characteristic feminist tone, Dior recalls a cathartic flamenco and a daring bullfighting. Choose your player

Maria Hristina Agut

Ms. Prada and Raf Simons and the title Prada Choices: it’s still about your uniform

Prada Choices is introduced by the artistic duo as an understanding of the complexity behind something supposedly simple. It’s still about finding your uniform

Cecilia Falovo

JW Anderson – classic clothing forms collide with unworn everyday

Split skateboard sweaters, terry cloth dresses, dumbbells holding up knitwear. The surrealistic garments in the spring/summer 2023 collection presented at Milan Fashion Week

Chiara Narciso

Hold by the poolside of the Monaco Beach hotel. Chanel Cruise 22/23

For this fashion cruise, Chanel becomes nostalgic and dreamy over the past voyages to Monaco and La Pausa. The place is «a matter of feelings above all»

Maria Hristina Agut

Terrence Zhou’s avant-garde garments in Metaverse are redefining the realities of fashion

Wuhanese fashion designer Terrence Zhou shares his dynamic approach to building a New York-based Avant-guard brand

Victoria Gilbert

What’s more for minimalism? The Row’s take on 70s-inspired elegant tailoring

Debuted during Paris Fashion Week in an intimate setting with no live stream, the Row resort 23 collection confirms the label’s philosophy to stay off the social media radar

Martina Tondo

Fendace: the first swap in the fashion industry – Just don’t call it collaboration

The collection was presented in Milan and it’s a promise we are back to the nightlife – bit is it contemporary? Versace delivers Fendi, Kim Jones, the codes of Donatella

Martina Tondo

Botanica, Blue Book – some flora with a focus on transformability- it’s Tiffany

Botanica, Tiffany & Co. 2022 Blue Book, honors Louis Comfort Tiffany’s interest in nature and floral motifs. Showcasing the company’s predilection for gemstones and technical proficiency

Olivier Dupon

Louis Vuitton and the time trunk: le Grand Bal du Temps by Nicolas Ghesquière

Inspired by his collaboration with HBO’s Irma Vep, Nicolas Ghesquière unveiled his collection, a mirror of past decades, a travel to old ages

Cecilia Falovo

Vincenzo Palazzo, Vìen: «freedom emerges as a beautiful outrage to social entrapment»

«Vìen it’s a clash» – Blending London, punk parties and underground music. What it is like to be an underground brand according to Vincenzo Palazzo

Jagrati Mahaver

«Either you have it, or you do not» – Sofia Tchkonia on Georgian fashion’s future

«They are not afraid of what they want to do ». A city between Eastern, Western and Soviet influences fosters the new generation of designers

Matthew Burgos

Half a century of queer history. Stanley Stellar’s street photography and a marginalized community

«We’ve been portrayed as degenerates or clowns, or sinners, never human. I knew I was recording something that never existed before, and that was freedom of us and acceptance of us»

Karolina Liczbinska

Paris Collections, January 2022: The high jewelry market is on a high writes Olivier Dupon

A review with some of the artistic directors and CEOs explains why January presentations in Paris are now as successful as July ones

Olivier Dupon

«The chaos is always in my mind» – The paradoxical narrative of artist Levi van Veluw

Finding logic in emotions and vice versa. An exploration into the chaos of the mind through tangible artistic dialogues by Levi van Veluw

Aarushi Saxena

Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard: «even though you have full transparency, things can still be intriguing»

The brand carving new shapes of communication. Louise Lyngh Bjerregard is all about exploring vulnerability and investigation through upcycled materials

Maria Hristina Agut

1920s inspirations bridge the silhouettes and constructivist set design of Chanel’s haute couture

Opened by Charlotte Casiraghi on horseback, Chanel’s haute couture shows Virginie Viard’s own signature while paying homage to the history of the house and the 1920s scene

Selin Hatunoglu

Hillary Taymour, founder of Collina Strada – «It’s just fun. I just try to make it not fucking boring»

From sustainability to climate change, to self-love and self-preservation, acting as a barometer of the world’s current political, social and economical situation. «We don’t shove values down anyone’s throat»

Jennifer Paccione

Schiaparelli Spring 2022 couture – Daniel Roseberry «when it’s done right, it moves us»

Elsa Schiaparelli’s worthy successor, Daniel Roseberry, maintains a balance between house codes and contemporary references for the fashion house’s new era

Karolina Liczbinska

From a simple accessory to a Money Power Icon: a closer look at the world of bags

Two and a half years of work at the Victoria & Albert Museum to connect over 300 bags through their function and utility, status and identity, design and making

Tatevik Avetisyan

Courrèges FW22: Nicolas de Felice for a recently-revived heritage: we see a bit of Balenciaga here

Half a century after the brand’s heyday, another Balenciaga-influenced technician brings his vision for (now eco-responsible) vinyl to life for FW22 menswear

Karolina Liczbinska

Weaving stories of Balkan heritage into three-dimensional tapestries: House of Ita

«Now we call it sustainability. But using materials that already had a life gives them and our story a continuity». In conversation with textile designer Margarita Aleksievska Sclavi, House of Ita

Aarushi Saxena

Sir Paul Smith explains his new collection: it’s time for men to dress up

Though rich in references dating back to the days of his youth in the 60s, the collection is «absolutely not a retrospective», says the designer

Karolina Liczbinska

Fendi Men – going back to the Roaring Twenties. This is how people learn about repetition

A dandy aesthetic for Fendi’s autumn/winter 2022 menswear collection. Silvia Venturini Fendi on crafting an evolved image of his man in a gender-blurring show

Cecilia Falovo

ACBC, Italian footwear: accountability from the brands rather than knowledge from the consumers

Gio Giacobbe and Edoardo Iannuzzi: the Italian footwear startup expands the fashion industry’s focused sustainability efforts to a holistic circular model through collaborations

Selin Hatunoglu

Streetwear before its advent in the fashion sphere, the narration of the VNGRD brand

The VNGRD publication reconnects the roots of streetwear with its entry into the Milanese and international fashion scene

Chiara Narciso

Eroticism comes first before the flowers – Mika Ninagawa x Van Cleef & Arpels

Through eroticism, the photographs of women demonstrate playfulness in soft pornography. Then, Mika Ninagawa’s transition to flowers, details, and objects and observations of everyday life

Matthew Burgos

Fashion collaborations to reignite the thrill of shopping – three industry experts comment

«The brand who constantly collaborates, constantly renews itself» the future of fashion post collaboration, where the ordinary is no longer satisfactory

Lucy Vipond

Tartan: from the Hallstatt mine in the 8th century BC to the New Millennium

Folk, punk, rock – maybe it all started with check – the myths and meanings of Tartan: chronicles of a revolution, tradition and pride in lands to the north

Barbara Rodeschn

Ann Demeulemeester begins a new chapter under the Italian ownership of Claudio Antonioli

Acquired by Claudio Antonioli in 2020, Demeulemeester’s brand is on its way to regaining the punk-inspired spark with major shifts in strategy and design

Selin Hatunoglu

Chanel: an exercise in nostalgia for the craftsmanship and photography of the past

«Fashion is about clothes, models and photographers» says Chanel’s Creative Director, Virginie Viard, of the label’s nostalgic Spring/Summer 2022 presentation

Samantha Southern

Ottolinger – Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch: post-apocalyptic rips to athleisure

Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch are ripping and burning the fashion playbook in a most literal sense, creating garments that do more revealing than concealing

Karolina Liczbinska

Coperni: the Maison attempts to highlight hemp versus cannabis

«The hemp was left for an extra 15 days in the Marais soil, equivalent to 23 weeks of growth to date, it is harvested specifically for the show in order to keep it alive, contrary to agricultural habits»

Matthew Burgos

Playing games: Maria Grazia Chiuri revisits her youth for Dior: «This nonsense of a game»

Maria Grazia Chiuri fuses references from the Rome of her childhood with Sixties Dior designs to propose an optimistic post-pandemic future at Paris Fashion Week

Samantha Southern

Max Zara Sterck – About female bodies, sculptural design and naturally derived materials

Max Zara Sterck is the Dutch designer creating expressive garments for free-willed women, tired of being constrained by fashion

Mollie Marshall

Echoes of past times: looking up at what cyclic changes bring at Fendi

A collaboration with the estate of illustrators Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos. Kim Jones unveiled Fendi’s multi-generational dimension

Cecilia Falovo

Knitwear and Hydropower – going greener, Drumohr makes few real steps forward

Born in the 1700s, a knitwear house Drumohr defines tradition: in conversation with Owner and Ceo, Mr. Michele Ciocca: «We want the term sustainability in our brand to turn into a sort of mantra»

Farah Hassan

The joy which can arrive after suffering: «We will not die young» – Priya Ahluwalia

The exploration of storytelling and the celebration of black joy through community and clothing: Priya Ahluwalia turns to film to capture the different heritages present in London

Caitlin Black

JENNA GRIBBONAURET VAN HEERDENNOÉMI MICHELJOSEPH GRIMALIVIA FIRTHNAZMA AKTEREKOW ESHUNLUCY MAULSBYDAVID SPRIGGSREGINE SCHUMANNANDREA BARONCHELLIMAURO MARTINOROBERT NORTONEMANUELE DASCANIOLISA WHITEFORMAFANTASMA

JENNA GRIBBON
AURET VAN HEERDEN
NOÉMI MICHEL
JOSEPH GRIMA
LIVIA FIRTH
NAZMA AKTER
EKOW ESHUN
LUCY MAULSBY
DAVID SPRIGGS
REGINE SCHUMANN
ANDREA BARONCHELLI
MAURO MARTINO
ROBERT NORTON
EMANUELE DASCANIO
LISA WHITE
FORMAFANTASMA