A view of the stairs designed by Gae Aulenti for Carlo Tivioli
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Tivioli, Milan: the interior designed by Gae Aulenti, the façade by Caccia Dominioni

«We want to keep the artisanal nature of the business even if this directly conflicts with the possibility of mass production», in conversation with Clemente Tivioli

Carlo Tivioli: Transforming Italian fur fashion

It takes time, effort, and a dose of courage to transform a family brand that made the history of Italian fur fashion and make it relevant and sustainable in such a controversial field. Yet, that’s what happened with Tivioli. The brand was founded in 1970 by Carlo Tivioli that, after 45 years, passed it to his son, Clemente. Growing up in the family workshop, he has embarked on this journey since 2014, taking the brand’s reins and finding new ways to attract and talk to a younger audience.

Tivioli changed its face moving from a traditional Made in Italy fur label to a fashion brand that uses textiles from all over the world for its collections while exploiting the traditional manufacturing skills of its artisans. «Continuing my father’s footsteps was the most natural choice I could make» explains Clemente Tivioli. «I wanted to find new ways to talk to my generation».

Cashmere pullovers, embroidered coats, and shearling jackets

The boutique in Via Santo Spirito, in the Milan fashion district, also known as Quadrilatero Della Moda, accommodates clothes stands full of cashmere pullovers, embroidered coats, and shearling jackets. One-of-a-kind pieces made of antique fabrics; a red coat made of a 1950s traditional Tunisian shawl used for weddings, with details in Rubin red shearling. A cashmere sweater with embroidered detail on the pocket, meters of trimming, and passemanerie in every colour. 

«Everything has a regenerative value; leaving a trace is unavoidable, but we currently focus on three topics. Durability, zero-waste, and quality over quantity», states Tivioli. And indeed, this triadic approach is not surprising. According to the Global Fashion Agenda report, sixty-six percent of fashion organizations now have multiple sustainability-related targets. Fashion brands are now focusing more on making timeless clothing. Pieces to be wearable with each new season, and that can be transformed and up-cycled or even organically decomposed.

Upcycling and zero-waste approach at Tivioli

The concept of transforming fabric and clothing is familiar to the fur industry. Working with such a raw material that – when correctly manufactured – can last for decades makes it normal for fur brands to re-use, reshape and transform clothing to create something new, that can be passed down to next generations.

Tivioli’s sustainable approach works the same way. «We have chosen an approach in which all of our materials are considered leftovers and are re-integrated into new creations. We patchwork snippets of fabric and embroider them onto cashmere sweaters, for example»

To be as coherent as possible with this perspective, Tivioli decided to stop following the fashion calendar that «obliged us to present large collections during specific times of the year». Tivioli explained they prefer to make smaller collections of unique pieces and produce new creations only as others are sold. 

Tailor-made-designs: transformed the fur into reversible coats

Tivioli now focuses on tailor-made designs, working with clients to create pieces made to order. «We offer this service, our customers can bring or send their Tivioli furs to our atelier. We had clients who felt uncomfortable wearing furs nowadays because of cultural bias – for them, we transformed the fur into a reversible coat, keeping the fur on the inside and decorating the outside with trimming and fabrics».

To do so, the process also must stay coherent with this artisanal approach. «We could change the way we produce and manufacture the collections. We could modernize the process» states Tivioli. «However, we are aware of the costs regarding the environmental and social impact of such a decision. We want to keep the artisanal nature of the business even if this directly conflicts with the possibility of mass production or the opportunity to have our products available in boutiques worldwide».

Since its beginning in the 70s, in fact, the Carlo Tivioli brand has focused on couture, on Alta Moda made by artisans, that requires care and time. A made-to-measure company. Far from sped-up production, high volumes, or dehumanized manufacturing processes through the use of technology. 

Fabrics collected from Sri Lanka to Peru

If Tivioli has been synonymous with fur for decades, the new course set by Clemente focused on different materials and fabrics too, often collected during his travels. This includes the Rajasthan desert in India, the Sacred Valley in Peru, the jungles of Sri Lanka. «Fabrics are sourced from indigenous suppliers worldwide. We work with manufacturers of traditional fabrics from India to Central Asia, from Eastern Africa to South America»

He continues, «on the other hand, Tivioli’s cashmere knitwear comes from 100% Italian manufactured yarn to guarantee softness and durability». The embroidered fabrics are an up-cycled patchwork of leftover textiles from other creations to keep materials waste to a minimum.

Shearlings: Tivioli’s introduction to younger generations

The main focus is on shearlings. Tivioli sees it as a way to introduce the brand to younger generations, who might find furs too expensive or challenging to wear. «We select only shearlings sourced from the food industry. We up-cycle this by-product into creations and give it a new life, a new value». The use of by-products from the food industry is an approach that exploits the principles of the circular economy to reduce the environmental and climate pressures and impacts of textile production and consumption. 

In the food industry, only a part is used as food. Around forty or fifty percent of a cow would be meat. The rest are leftovers. For example, automotive leather is made almost exclusively from bovine hides, but that’s just a tiny part of leftovers. The hide makes up less than ten percent of the total weight. A total of 240 million hides are produced annually, weighing 7,6 billion kilograms of potential waste material. 

To exploit these leftovers, implementing circular business models supported by policies addressing materials and design, production and distribution, use and reuse, and collection and recycling is required. According to reports, circular business models for fashion could create a $560bn economic opportunity. The restoration, resale, repair, customization, and rental markets in fashion are already worth more than $73bn. Moreover, circular models could grow from 3.5% of the global fashion market today to 23% by 2030. 

The fur bias

As an increasing number of brands and retailers ban animal fur. Industry associations are promoting its sustainability, as an example of the sustainable use of renewable natural resources. Tivioli purchases skins exclusively from WELFUR and SAGA, the only organizations recognized by the European Union that certify breeders who protect and safeguard animals. 

«These institutions have implemented the FurMark, a trace and certification system based on sustainability, animal welfare, and positive environmental impact during all stages of the manufacturing process. They guarantee that the entire production chain follows guidelines to protect animal welfare», explains Tivioli.

According to reports, as many as fifty-nine percent of all sustainability claims by European and U.K. fashion brands are misleading. A majority of brands are still reliant on fossil fuel-based synthetic fibres. They are failing to provide information about how they reduce their environmental footprint. However, brands like Tivioli are succeeding in transforming their approach and in reshaping their business model to stay in tune with the times. 

Sharing their values about sustainability and their triadic approach based on durability, zero-waste, and quality over quantity, they’re emphasizing the know-how possessed in-house, such as Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) did during the journées particulières, or as in Hermès’ movie Les Mains d’Hermès. Such initiatives could have notable impacts in the long run and help keep the brand appealing for younger generations.

Art and design: Tivioli’s store in via Santo Spirito, Milan

Carlo Tivioli’s legacy doesn’t stop at fashion; he worked with the best architects of his time for his store in via Santo Spirito, in the heart of Milan. Gae Aulenti herself contributed to redesign the location, creating a blend of architecture, art and fashion. «These have always been a combination within my father’s life», recalls Tivioli. «A passion that he cultivated throughout his career and that gave us fertile ground on which to cultivate our relationship. 

And Clemente himself, from a young age, has been passionate about these universes: «this has helped me develop a sensibility, to use in my work». Working and living in such a timeless space also impacted the approach he gave to the Tivioli brand. «Being here reminds me how to produce creations that are not victims of time, that have to stay relevant events as time goes on».

Carlo Tivioli

Carlo Tivioli founded his brand in 1970, and since then, the brand has been synonymous with Italian Alta Moda and artisanal craft techniques. After a 45-year career, he passed the reins to his son Clemente Tivioli. The latter is now continuing in his father’s footsteps, revamping the family brand and making it appealing to younger generations, also thanks to a sustainable approach.

Maria Bellotto

The writer does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article.

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