Horto brings the kitchen into an ethical dimension, experimenting with cuisine while staying true to nature though a short supply chain as «everything can be found nearby»
Horto: kitchen made ethical
In the heart of Milan’s historic center, a new restaurant has opened: Horto. Their slogan reads «ethics to taste». Founded by Osvaldo Bosetti and Diego Panizza, Horto wants to bring the kitchen into an ethical dimension, to experiment with cuisine while at the same time staying true to nature. The restaurant aims at joining innovation and tradition in a multi-sensorial offer, whose key principles are sustainability and ethical balance, as expressed by the concept of «ethical hour». This means to only use seasonal and local raw materials, all coming from farms and producers within a range of one-and-a-half-hour maximum from the center of Milan. Horto’s suppliers are required to cooperate in reducing the environmental impact by gathering all their products on the same means of transportation and by cutting on packaging.
A short supply chain
Such concept, which results in a short supply chain, is the result of Bosetti and Panizza’s desire to enhance local territory through cuisine, creating a synergy between the two. Having in environmental awareness one of its cornerstones, Horto promotes a new ecosystem model, based on knowledge and respect of the natural world. The «ethical hour» translates as an invitation to go back to the rhythm of nature, marked by the passing of the seasons, and to rediscover the «great but often forgotten wealth» of the local territory, in the belief that «everything can be found nearby».
Furthermore, Horto’s sustainable approach has a social dimension, aiming at becoming an example of how different sectors can work together in order to achieve «a higher quality of life».
Norbert Niederkofler: a starred chef with a sustainable mission
The strategic and organizational direction of Horto’s kitchen has been entrusted to the three-Michelin Starred and Green Starred for Sustainability chef Norbert Niederkofler. Born in the Dolomites, Niederkofler traveled the world. From London to Zurich, Milan, Munich and New York. Then, he came back to South Tyrol and rediscovered his roots, his land and its potential. He decided to infuse his cuisine with knowledge and respect for the local territory, enhancing traditions and using flavors to promote a sustainable approach for the sake of the future generations: «When Thomas, my first child, was born, I started to look at the world with different eyes. Sustainability would become the principle with which to change my way of cooking».
For Niederkofler sustainability means «respect for nature and the use of everything possible, with a waste-free way of thinking. In addition, when we use meat, we use the whole animal and all its parts: this is our concept of respect». Coming back to South Tyrol, Niederkofler took on a journey to create an authentic, genuine, but at the same time innovative cuisine, which led him first to work at restaurant St. Hubertus in San Cassiano and then to the opening of AlpiNN: «Since I started working at St. Hubertus, not just one thing has changed, but many. Today we look at how nature provides us with the products. We cook delicately regarding temperature, timing and strength, especially in autumn and winter, and we like to work with open fire».
The values Horto is based on: ethical sustainability
Bosetti and Panizza’s choice fell on Niederkofler because he embodied the same values, they wanted Horto to be based on, starting from the relevance attributed to organic raw materials: «Produce as naturally as possible. Each product should have a story behind it. We must follow the rules of nature and the seasonality of the products».
Seasonality is another common cornerstone, which affects not only the way of cooking, but also what to cook and when. «Seasonality is essential, especially with vegetables. We had to learn how to reuse biodiversity in order to always have year-round products. By following seasonality, we learn to understand nature. We must use what we have at the moment, so we have to work with what nature and the growers provide. This means that today we are third in line: that was the biggest lesson we had to learn».
Horto and Sole Bistro: a menu for each time of the day
In the evening, Horto offers Savoring, a tasting menu for dinner, featuring six courses that can be accompanied by wines from international labels and small wineries, as well as infusions, decoctions, kombucha and non-alcoholic preparations.
During the day, guests can lunch at Sole Bistro, where they will find Awakening, a lighter à la carte menu. In charge of the daily management of the restaurant is the Executive Chef and Head of Menu Development Alberto Toè, who reinterprets Niederkofler’s lesson with his attachment to home cooking: «With Horto we are bringing an idea of cuisine that is dictated by what nature and the surrounding area offer, while enhancing the human involvement. Cuisine is in fact made of people and their stories; it is admirable to see nowadays young people wanting to innovate, starting right from where their grandparents left off. We operate with this concept in mind, while committing every day to follow a practice of no waste and give raw materials a new life».
Horto: a «locus amoenus» in the heart of Milan
Answering to what they describe as a call from the world itself, Horto’s co-founders wanted their creation to be not just a restaurant, but a modern reinterpretation of the Latin classical concept of «locus amoenus»: a place where man and nature coexist in harmony as in the beginnings of time. A refuge from everyday life where to find peace and rediscover ourselves. Such ideas are expressed in the name of the restaurant itself: Horto originates from the Latin word «hortus», meaning garden.
As the location for Horto, The Madelan’s rooftop has been chosen. The Madelan is a building originally designed in 1902 by architect Luigi Broggi, located just beyond the Duomo and a few steps from Castello Sforzesco, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, theatro La Scala and Milan’s fashion district. The current structure is the result of over one century of work – with the final block designed by architect Giovanni Muzio. It matches the eclectic style with soft geometry. The choice fell on The Madelan’s rooftop not only to be in the heart of Milan and have a view on its main attractions, but also to suggest the idea of an elevation – both physical and spiritual – from the chaotic everyday life of the metropolis.
Otium and negotium
Luisa Collina designed Horto’s environment. She is the Dean of the Design School of the Milan Polytechnic: «It is from the dialogue between city and territory, from the quest to find balance between otium and negotium, between tradition and experimentation, that Horto takes shape». Otium and negotium are, again, Latin words, for the two main spheres of ancient Roman life: leisure and work, private and public life. Romans thought that these two had to be perfectly balanced to achieve health and happiness.
Both Horto’s interiors and exteriors display a contemporary style. The exteriors are characterized by a terrace, which is part of a landscape project aiming at raising awareness on environmental issues and biodiversity. Designed by architect and teacher Raffaella Colombo, the landscape has a horizontal approach and celebrates the history of the Italian medieval garden. It is characterized by a contrast between the geometric design and the freedom for plants to grow following their own natural development.
«The colors, the vegetational assemblies, the botanical harmonies and imbalances will change spontaneously and seasonally, including periods of stasis, where dead essences and mixed mantles are constantly developing while remaining walkable, allowing guests to dine on them. On Horto’s terrace you will immerse yourself in what is delicate, to reveal the most intimate and secret sensibilities of the recreated landscape and enjoy culinary excellence in a more relaxed way».
A complete view of Milan’s skyline
To make people feel connected with nature and allow a complete view of Milan’s skyline, all the boundaries between the internal and the external space were removed in favor of a glass wall that runs all around the location. As for the interiors, they were designed by architecture studio GLA (Genius Loci Architettura) and are made of natural materials. This includes custom-made birch wood tables and parquet pavements – with a preponderance of light pastel tones. The interior of the restaurant is almost monochromatic, with just some slight touch of color, given mainly by the textiles of the seats: light blue custom-made upholstered sofas and chair cushions.
The red thread of Horto’s interior design is the principle of zero waste, since all the furniture is made of recycled wood coming from old vinegar factories and the walls are covered with a rice plaster derived from the waste of its agricultural and industrial processing.
Since transparency is one of Horto’s key values, the kitchen is open to view. The organization of space manages to combine an idea of openness with the need for privacy, since the restaurant features an open space plan with small side alcoves. Thus, Horto is suitable for both large groups and small gatherings seeking for a more intimate experience.
Horto
Horto srl, Via Felice Cavallotti 8, 20122 Milan, is a new restaurant directed by starred chef Norbert Niederkofler, serving a modern cuisine made of seasonal and local products in a sustainable location placed on The Madelan’s rooftop.
