From self-irony to eroticism to cultural identity, Julie Poly’s artworks do not shy away
The artistic meeting at the intersection between fashion and pseudo-documentary photography. In conversation with Ukrainian visual artist Julie Poly
Ukrainian visual artist Julie Poly
Blurring the lines between fiction and reality, between staged and documentary, Ukrainian visual artist Julie Poly brings together her past experience in various artistic disciplines to create exaggerated scenes of everyday life.
Twisting the visual identity of Ukrainian youth and culture, Poly presents and explores a mockumentary style that both celebrates self-irony and her surroundings, but also aims to bring to the forefront discussions on eroticism, presentation of the body, and cultural identity in present-day Ukraine.
The thirtieth anniversary of Ukraine’s Independence
Poly’s work has been presented in various editorials, such as Vogue Ukraine, Dazed Beauty, and Numéro Berlin, amongst others. On the occasion of the thirtieth anniversary of Ukraine’s Independence, Vogue Ukraine presented thiry covers by thiry Ukrainian artists, including Julie Poly, for the Futurespective issue during the summer of 2021.
Poly’s contribution to the project included shiny, almost plastic in their pose, models, dressed in various patterns and colors. The characters stand out erratically as they are pictured on a clear blue sky and lush green grass background.
PH Museum Days in Bologna, Italy
During the second edition of PH Museum Days, a festival of international photography spread over the city of Bologna, Poly presented the project Ukrzaliznytsia (2017-2019) and the accompanying photo book.
The project’s title Ukrzaliznytsia is the name of the state-owned railway company – Ukrainian Railways. Poly captures scenes, both staged and real, of train life in Ukraine. From the passengers to the conductor, from the ornately decorated cabins to the surreal formality of the restaurant carriage.
«For this project, I worked on it for around two years, one year of preparation and one year of shooting. It also took time to bring the book together, as it is not only an exhibition but also a book project. I decided to start working on this project because I travel a lot via train; throughout my childhood and through my student years. Around ten years ago, I worked as a train conductor, where I studied for one summer at the Railway Academy in the customs department. This is a popular job for students during the summer months as you are paid and the railway workers are away on vacation».
The exhibition itself is presented in a manner to reflect a train; as large printed images are placed along the space, with a video of a woman dressed as a bride runs down the carriage and into the next. Creating an illusion that the exhibition itself continues through the video. Poly is no stranger to train life and those who frequent them, not only from experience as a passenger but also from the point of view as a member of staff.
«I knew from a young age already that I wanted to follow a career in photography. However, my parents told me that being an artist is not stable and not a real job. In Ukraine, having an education is a social lift, it is important to have a strong profession. Therefore, I was advised to attend the Railway Academy. Even though at that point I already had a photography studio and worked as a photographer. But it was vital that I continued my studies and be able to present to my parents the final diploma».
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Julie Poly photographs real characters
The project is a continuation of the imagination, with a basis in reality. Such as passengers with their luggage, talking amongst each other, and preparing for a long journey. Poly photographs real passengers mixed together with models made to look like passengers. A style that Poly calls pseudo-documentary, as it is unclear where the fantasy starts and the reality ends.
The range of characters includes soldiers; gigolos; a bride; businessmen; train staff; sports athletes, and made-up girls sitting on satin pink sheets or with cheetah print bags. Poly describes that traveling via these trains, especially during long journeys where it is possible to sleep overnight, there is a certain eroticism.
«Nowhere in the world will you find trains where half-naked people travel together side by side». Passengers get changed into more comfortable clothing. They eat, drink and sleep in close quarters, there is an immediate lack of privacy once the train starts moving.
Ukrzaliznytsia. A visual story
The book, whose packaging imitates the design of the Ukrzaliznytsia bedding and includes a train ticket is «divided into chapters, each one begins with an image of myself demonstrating the train rules. For example, how to validate the train ticket, how to make the bed, and where to store the luggage».
There are thirteen stories in total, each includes images and is accompanied by an artistic text, or poetry. The texts were written by Lizaveta Gottfrick and Olga Balenciaga based on the stories by Poly. The visual stories become even clearer to those from other countries, besides Ukraine.
Julie Poly: a crossover of artistic styles
Poly notes that she presents her work with fullness. The images feel bright in artificial lighting, the excessive color schemes, and the general busyness of the scene.
«There is a crossover of artistic styles. I use my experience in documentary and bring it into my fashion projects. There is this final mixture of both. I love this intersection of the two styles; I don’t want to cut anything from either side, because I like the meeting of the two. Working with self-irony, I reflect on my own experience. I find that using these exaggerated colors, and bright lights, I find that this works for telling my story.
I have found that when you want to discuss difficult topics. The viewer might shy away and feels uneasy. Yet I find it is easier to talk when you have this self-irony, people are more open, and feel at ease. When the images are playful, people are more likely to start a dialogue».
Kyiv-Pasazhyrsky Railway Station, 2018
Ukrzaliznytsia was first presented to the public at Ukraine’s central Kyiv-Pasazhyrsky Railway Station in September 2018. Twentytwo photographs were displayed as backlit posters in advertising spaces located throughout the station’s main hall.
The project had come full circle, coming back to its origins. For Poly, trains have always been the most convenient method of transportation throughout her life. After the Russian invasion in February 2022, trains became essential for the thousands upon thousands fleeing the country to neighboring borders.
Poly’s images are not only fantastical in their exaggerated creations and bright lights. But also recall a population and everyday life that existed in Ukraine before the start of the war.
Julie Poly – sexuality, self-discovery, gender, and intimacy
As well to her photographic work, Poly has published two issues of an erotic art zine that focuses on artworks by Ukrainian artists and contributors that raise issues of sexuality, self-discovery, gender, and intimacy.
The second issue’s main theme was tattoos, and their interpretation by artists. By demonstrating a reinterpretation of eroticism and how it is viewed and consumed, Poly aims to continue with the publication of the third issue.
«I love exploring the theme of eroticism. In 2021, I launched the magazine Gryshnytsia, which in Ukrainian translates to mean Sinner. It is not a typical erotic magazine, as it explores the works of artists that investigate this theme, the self-presentation of the body. I want to show and promote the work of these artists through my magazine. My role is curator, I am multifaceted when it comes to my artistic projects.
Until now there have been two issues, I had been working on the third issue however the war started and we could not follow through with the production. I left Kyiv in March 2022, after the beginning of the war, I am now based in Munich. However, we have gathered the team together, we have decided to change the topic and we want to continue with publishing the next issue of Gryshnytsia».
Julie Poly
Born and raised in Stakhanov, Ukraine, Julie Poly (1986), full name Yulia Polyashchenko, is a visual artist, who studied at the Kharkiv School of Photography. Up until the Russian invasion of Ukraine in February 2022 Poly lived in Kyiv, she now currently lives and works in Munich. Her portfolio includes projects for Ukrainian and international magazines, such as Vogue, Dazed & Confused, and i-D.
