Lampoon, Han Cao's embroidery
WORDS
REPORTING
TAG
BROWSING
SHARE
Facebook
WhatsApp
Pinterest
LinkedIn
Email
Twitter

Moving forward from the concept of a fair: FILO 2022 focus on new blends, yarn techniques and productive processes

FILO classifies exhibitor companies through surveys tackling indicators such as: energy consumption, waste, environmental monitoring and chemical management 

FILO 2022 – International Yarns Exhibition

According to a report by research firm Global Industry Analysts – the global market for spun yarn – estimated at 52 million tons in 2020, is expected to grow to 59.3 million tons by 2026. Researching and investing in producing new yarns and blends, FILO 2022 exhibitors can propose new solutions or highlight the theme of sustainability; making the first steps of the fashion production more environmentally-friendly, as the market requires. 

Encouraging debate about manufacture

As Paolo Monfermoso, General Manager of FILO, explains, in the textile world the supply chain is composed of many steps. «A trade fair like FILO is a b2b event made for technicians and designers». And continues, «FILO must interpret a platform, not just a crossroads of supply and demand. FILO is a moment of confrontation, not only about fabrics and fashion, but also about manufacturing»

Hence the choice to give technical talks, half-hour speeches, and Filo Happening, – a short round table at the end of the first day – to present topics for the textile industry through the reports of first-rate speakers. The formula, tested for years, closes with a moment of debate and sharing with the audience. «As a fair, we’re transforming into a platform for work, knowledge, interchange, and research. We have the opportunity to interact with the media and younger generations to open a debate while pushing for innovation». 

C.L.A.S.S. participating at FILO 2022

To support this goal, FILO 2022 will also see the participation of players active in the field of responsible innovation, as C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy). The international eco-hub founded by Giusy Bettoni and based in Milan. Since 2007 it focuses on ethics, traceability and transparency in the supply chain. Making selections of certified fabrics, yarns and fibers, C.L.A.S.S also considers alternative sourcing to promote circular economy in the fashion system. Offering consultancy to companies that want to improve innovation. At FILO 2022, C.L.A.S.S. proposes a sharing arena dedicated to responsible innovation together with partners selected for fibers, yarns and threads that are the key to create responsible products and collections. 

In addition to C.L.A.S.S., FILO organized short talks, led by technicians and experts in the sector. Created for tackling sustainability and material’s regeneration. The themes will be discussed by entrepreneurs, such as Trussardi, representatives of organizations committed to promoting natural fibers, such as Woolmark, Celc, European Confederation of Flax and Hemp and Associazione Commercio Laniero. But also managers and technicians from companies specialized in man-made fibers’ sustainable innovations. 

The yarn industry demands physical presence 

In the yarns’ sector, innovation is a leitmotif that guides the market and the production processes, as Monfermoso states: «with FILO we interpret market needs, encouraging product development, offering stimuli for reasoning that brands and producers can apply and reinterpret». 

Alternatives is the fil rouge of this 57th edition of FILO, intended as «an ethical commitment», to quote Gianni Bologna who designs the trends for the fair. If FILO is a place for discussion, «in the yarn industry, buyers need to manipulate products, pull them, and understand the volume. The nature of yarns demands physical presence; digital can just be a support. We relied on digital only for trends», he continues.  

FILO 2022 continues with the publication exclusively online. «Firstly it is a decision that comes to respond to a market request and share it with a large audience of professionals interested in our proposals in Italy and abroad. Secondly, in this way, the access to product development proposals extends over time. Exhibitors, buyers, sector professionals can choose the moment in which to view them. Then they can return to see them every time to grasp new aspects», Monfermoso explains.

Lampoon, Tintoria Finissaggio 2000
Tintoria Finissaggio 2000, the best quality of dyeing, finishing, bonding or digital printing

FILO flow and surveys to classify exhibitors

Talking about sustainability, FILO, along with other players in the yarns and textile fair industry, designed a sustainable area where all the environment-friendly options available are collected. «At FILO, we are not a certifying body. We cannot only select companies that just claim to be sustainable» explains Monfermoso. «We dedicated a side area of the event to promote and valorize companies following this type of path». 

The area dedicated to the FiloFlow project is gaining visibility, in parallel with the awareness of operators. Inside the fair there is also the presence of organizations for the promotion of natural fibers; and the presence of some leading groups in the production of man-made fibers, along with dye houses and fiber producers.

«We ideated a survey of fifty-two questions to classify exhibitor companies. The number of participants had grown up to sixty percent of exhibitors. Proving the interest in this approach in the field. We are aware that at this stage, sustainability is more of a cost. But it is what makes a product different from another. Not just a marketing strategy». 

Companies commitment to impacting less the environment

The survey tackles different indicators such as company dimensions, raw materials, supply-chain traceability, ethical and social involvement, energy consumption, waste, environmental monitoring and chemical management, to trace the efforts brands make to have a smaller impact on the environment. Other fairs in the same sector took in the last years a similar solution, for example Milano Unica, the textile fair that designed a report too, to keep track of companies’ performances.

Reports say as many as fifty-nine percent of all green claims by European and U.K. fashion brands are misleading. They’re still relying on fossil fuel-based synthetic fibers and failing to show credible information about how they plan to reduce their environmental footprint. Monfermoso comments: «at FILO, we represent medium to high-quality products». Differentiating from fast-fashion brands and materials. «Sustainability is about the composition of a textile, of a garment; the textile and yarn industry has to explain itself», adds Monfermoso. «We have worked on a storytelling about companies and production processes, explaining how textiles and yarns are made, and what’s behind a garment».

The EU circular economy action plan

The opening to dye houses and fiber producers allowed FILO to offer a vision of the supply chain to visitors and exhibitors, and developments in the search for innovative yarns. Dyeing is in fact one of those industries that in the past years has made progress when it comes to energy efficiency and sustainability in Italy and in Europe. 

In March 2020, the European Commission adopted a new circular economy action plan, which includes an EU strategy for textiles, aimed at stimulating innovation and boosting reuse within the sector. In February 2021, the Parliament adopted a resolution on the new circular economy action plan demanding additional measures to achieve a carbon-neutral, environmentally sustainable, toxic-free and fully circular economy by 2050, including tighter recycling rules and binding targets for materials use and consumption by 2030.  

«There are laws and regulatory agencies controlling emissions and drains. This encourages the market to reason in a certain way, to invest in sustainable approaches and innovation», explains Monfermoso. Moreover, certain aspects of a more sustainable approach that can be seen as constraints can instead become strength points. As when it comes to natural dyes: «natural dyes are not consistent. Every garment might have different shades and color, but this can make that item unique», states Monfermoso.

Natural fibers: FILO 2022 focus on wool, flax and linen

Fibers like wool, flax and linen are protagonists of FILO 2022; considering that sustainability and traceability of products can be obtained only from a supply chain perspective. Furthermore, the increase in awareness of the damage caused by synthetic materials on the environment has led to the rehabilitation of natural materials. 

As a result, there is an increase in demand for commercial use of natural fiber-based composites, materials readily available in nature, and have advantages like low-cost, lightweight, renewability, biodegradability, and high specific properties. 

For FILO 2022 edition, two natural fibers are under the spotlight. Particularly wool and linen. «We asked fiber representatives to tell us about their experience with research and innovation. What they forecast the market will focus on in the upcoming months», explains Monfermoso. From Australian merino wool, 100% made of natural fibers, to flax and line; whose traceability is guaranteed by European Flax® and Masters of Linen®. The presence of such exhibitors involved in sustainability offers visitors and buyers the opportunity to learn more about the versatility and characteristics of these fibers. 

IWTA, National Wool Trade Association will be present at 57th edition of FILO; representing part of the Italian and foreign operators of the trade in textile raw materials present in Italy. To promote  clarity and transparency of the various protocols and standards and adopted by the various brands. Intervening in the various institutional bodies, where decisions are taken. This to verify the criteria adopted when allocating the various degrees of sustainability. 

FILO 2022

An international yarns and fibers b2b fair, FILO 2022 takes place in Milan twice a year. The event aims to highlight the field of yarns and products from Italian and worldwide companies. Not only offering the opportunity for buyers and exhibitors to meet, tackling topics like sustainability and innovation. Now in its 57th edition, during the years, the event evolved into a business platform. More than a fair, becoming a point of reference for the yarn industry; as the result of research and innovation, produced with an eye on ethical production.

Maria Bellotto

The writer does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article.

check and buy on Prototipo Store
item collections in limited edition
crafted according to our editorial search

Hemp / made in Italy
Lampoon is working to restore Hemp production in Italy
as hemp is the one and only natural vegetal fiber sourceable in the country
for more info, please email us

check and buy on Prototipo Store
item collections in limited edition
crafted according to our editorial search

Hemp / made in Italy
Lampoon is working to restore
Hemp production in Italy
as hemp is the one and only
natural vegetal fiber sourceable in the country
for more info, please email us at [email protected]

SHARE
Facebook
LinkedIn
Pinterest
Email
WhatsApp
Twitter