«It aims to encourage people to get out and roam», said Veronique Nichanian. At the Mobilier National in Paris the show exhibits nowadays’ duality
Véronique Nichanian and the partnership with Cyril Teste
Paris, 26th June. Sitting facing large screens – spectators witnessed the third collaboration between Hermès men ready to wear designer Véronique Nichanian and theater designer Cyril Teste, in a fusion of digital and live at the stone courtyard of the Mobilier National. The partnership captured the mood of the previous collections through a screen when in-person events were not possible. This time, it offered a view on details that would be lost in a traditional show, thanks to the screens along the runway. In Teste’s own words: «There will be no generalized arrangement for all the models to follow but rather individualized arrangements for each, with cameras capturing faces, movement, and details». With that being a primary factor in Hermès’ ethos, it was an evolution which brought spectators closer to the house’s ideas and concepts. Nichanian, who has led the men’s collection since 1988 conceived a digital presentation that came to life with texture and colors – it speaks a sense of lightness, relaxation, and freedom. The collection is a response to the call of wide-open spaces, a need for perspectives and a reinvention of a wardrobe where different fabrics intertwine – innovation and heritage intermingle. «Unforeseen events stimulate creativity» explains the designer «I had to reinvent my approach to designing and presenting clothes through a different use of colors and materials». Since ancient times, colors and the idea of lightness have fascinated scholars, who theorized on them, as well as on light, shadow and the psychological functioning that is present. From Goethe and his Theory on Colors to Goldstein, specific clothes produced systematic reactions and associations that people related to their corresponding cognition and behavior. Drawing on the visual sensitivity to modern times, Hermès’ design recalled a desired liberty with its implication of responsibility and duty on social cognition and interaction. The designer wants to believe in a form of optimism connected with her own artistic spirit, that let her set out the show. At the beginning of the twentieth century, Swiss psychiatrist Carl Gustav Jung said: «By accepting reality – taking things as they are – unusual knowledge come to me. Everything becomes more alive»; today Véronique Nichanian unveiled garments that served as a reminder that with disruption also comes the opportunity to get a new lease on life.
Lampoon reviews the Hermès Spring Summer 2022 Menswear collection
Artistic director Véronique Nichanian conceptualized a menswear collection that expressed a duality of spirit – light and free, including elements of formality. Contrasting fabrics, hues and ideas interweave, coming together to create a binary opposition that forms the essence of the garments that came down the runway, shaking the appearances. Modern techniques are bound to legacy patterns: the innovation dialogues with historic prints that feature perforated motifs, dévoré, transformed with contemporary techniques. Every piece circles back to the idea of liberation. As the show notes stated, depth met fantasy, paper was turned into fabric; Nichanian mixed up the use of fabrication, keeping the interplay of opposites with technical innovation in craftwork legacy. Hermès’ toil bright material and cotton come together, accented with satins and silks, stitched graphics to leather, which is enlivened by colors and the juxtaposition of shades coordination. They range from celadon-green, seaweed shades and charcoal tones, merged with faded pink, raw silk, and stone gray. Véronique Nichanian continued to push forward with a hybrid, indoor-outdoor thrust, proposing two-toned jackets with patches of technical fabrics and leather overshirts and hooded parkas. «The collection aims to encourage people to get out and roam» Nichanian said, as quoted in the show notes. Daisy patterns could be seen on sweaters and shirts. Bermuda shorts made an appearance. Accessories included belts made of rope and technical knits, with hook clasps and H buckles, sandals and ankle boots in goatskin, as well as bags in military canvas. In creating the accessories, Nichanian was inspired by sailing and captured the collective desire to get away and travel once again. Sticking to the brand’s roots, the collection boasted reimagined shirting. Shirts came crafted in rubberized lambskin and carried the zig zag stitching used in sails; elsewhere mesh tops with shirting details were finished with classic Hermès prints. The hybrid approach created flexible forms: casual design conceived for daytime meets structured elegance for the evening.
Hermès’ freedom to create
Since 1837, Hermès has remained faithful to its humanist values. The freedom to create, the constant quest for materials and the transmission of a know–how approach have bolstered the main strength of Hermès: the craftsmanship. According to Axel Dumas, CEO of the Maison, Hermès garments reconnect people to their humanity, bringing the customer back to his own sensitivity. Véronique Nichanian’s tenure has followed the two core drivers of the company’s business engine: intuition and creativity. Today her menswear universe follows the dichotomy between contemporary world, focusing on the interest in quality, and materials and details. Her research and development into yarn and fabric started from when she was working with Nino Cerruti in 1976. She has brought the same codes to the French House, creating versatile and informal essentials with the finest craftsmanship. The formality in Nichanian’ s collection meets an easy vision, elegant layering mixed with casual shapes – a motivation to embrace the way people are living today, taking at the same time a hybrid approach to clothing. «As a designer, one of my roles is to reinvent and adapt to the times we are living through» explains Nichanian. New silhouettes were created, suffused with energy, a pull between classic and contemporary, without losing the principle of quality which is one of the Maison’s values. Today, as the industry rushes to meet new consumers stepping back into society, Hermès is working on hyped- up proposition, reflecting the obscurity the world has faced and the lightness it is still looking for: embracing the modern condition while reconnecting with reality.
Hermès Men’s Summer 2022
Hermès Men’s Summer 2022 breathes a sigh of lightness and freedom, with depth and fantasy reflecting a duality of spirit that modulates a hybrid approach to clothing. The show took place on June 26th in Paris and witnessed the third collaboration with director Cyril Teste, showing an innovative dialogue with historic prints.